[Modern]¶
US Army Squad and Flatbed¶

The GIs were basecoated black and sprayed from an above angle in the base grey, creating the first shadows.

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I airbrushed the underside, the steps blow the foor and the flatbed in rust, then with some gunmetal. After sealing the areas with gloss varnish, I applied water and salt.

Over this I then airbrushed the three colour NATO camo scheme, with the respective colour set from AK Interaktive. When this was try, I rinsed the model under running water to remove the salt and exposing the rusted metal areas.


[2003]¶
Insurgents Technical¶

The technical is also done. Into the rust areas I stippled metall to represent fresher scratches. I painted the windows the same way as for the Humvees (after all, they will be chasing each other in the same environment). Need to get some crew members for the AA...

Speaking of the AA, I dd not glue it in place, its pin is deep enough to keep the weapon in place, if the model is turned upside down.


[Dreadball]¶
Gaming Board¶

Some lessons learnt. When using a masking material that is itself not transparent, the edge of the masking material should fit somewhere on a visible line on the model (like a row of hexes). With my card mask, it was a bit of guessing if I placed it correctly or not... As you can see, the lines are not always placed neatly...

Apart from that small detail, the process worked well. The salt was a bit of a hindrance, as the underground was not flat, and four hands were very helpful (thanks to my wife).

Next, the salt will be removed; the Dreadball league symbols, the entry point arrows and the referree starting field checkers need to be painted. Also the lines of the hexfields and the numbers on the counters need to be painted.


[Dreadball]¶
Gaming Board¶

Okay, time to get some colours onto the board. The following were used:

First step was, to spray the metal colour.

The main areas of the board were then sprayed green grey.

The team areas, the score counter, the scoring areas and the turn counter were painted in red and blue, one colour for each team.

At this point I decided, that I wanted to break up the hexfield optic of the field. The scoring area was the first part where I applied this. From card I made a mask, and used it to show the scoring areas as a rectangular area.

The 'side add on' tiles were also given a straight edge in the field colour.

The board in its current stage.

When I looked at it, I decided that the playing area needs some lines to give it more structure and further 'de-hex' it.

As a preparation step I cut two more masks from card.

I hope to be able to use them tomorrow.


[2003]¶
Insurgents Technical¶

I sprayed the technical first in metallic, then red and finally in white on the lower part, using a piece of card as a mask.

After the salt was rubbed of and the model rinsed, I used Secret Weapon Washes soft body black in the recesses.


[Dreadball]¶
Gaming Board¶

With all the teams painted, the board is still missing some paint. Time to change that.

First, all pieces received a basecoat of black from my airbrush.

The second coat was of Vallejo Model Air Rust.

In preparation for the salt step, all pieces received a coat of gloss vanish.


[2003]¶
Insurgents Technical¶

This model was sitting on my table for some time with a rust undercoat. While working on my Dreadball boards today, I also salted this pick up. Tomorrow will follow the paint job.


[Deathball]¶
Gaming Board¶

With all the teams painted, the board is still missing some paint. Time to change that.

First, all pieces received a basecoat of black from my airbrush.

The second coat was of Vallejo Model Air Rust.

In preparation for the salt step, all pieces received a coat of gloss vanish.


[Deathball]¶
Gaming Board¶

I own the wood playing board for Dreadball, which still awaits painting. I want to do a run down arena, with a lot of rust. Here is my first test piece, where I gave the salt method my first try.

I sprayed the piece Vallejo Air Model Rust. Then I applied water in selected spots and sprinkled salt over it. This was left to dry.

I sprayed two coats of silver, Vallejo Air Gun Grey and then a lighter code of Vallejo Steel.

The last step was to rubb off the salt.

I am quite please with the result, the final piece needs to be more detailed, with field markings etc. painted on, but the rust effect is very good I think.