Gaming Board

The board is done! I painted the last white lines on the main boards, then painted the DB logos and the arrows on the entry hexes in bright green like they are glowing. The reason for the DB logo in the board center and on the side counter facing each other instead of facing in the same direction, is that each player sees one correctly (otherwise I would need to admit that I botched the assembly...). Placing that piece on the other side does not work, as the black/yellow line does not align correctly on the other side.

After taking the photos, the tiles received a coat of glass varnsish, and then one of matt varnish.

Gaming Board

I did the turn and score counter, I also did some WIP pics.

The white goo applied lliberally.

The white goo wiped away, leaving it only in the recesses,

Center tile with illuminated (the white glow in between) the hexes.

Gaming Board

I started to paint the white lines - which sucks! First, I used my smallest brush with thinned down white, but kept overspilling paint outside the depressions. With even more thinned white it became easier, but the white did not cover properly.

Then I remembered when I put new tiles into our bathroom and added joint compound (I hope this is the right English term). You just poured it on, spread it out, then washed away the excess with a sponge and water (well, it was a bit more complicated, but this should suffice here).

So I tried to emulate this technique on my gaming board. I mixed white with water to a consistency of a bit thicker than milk and added a drop of washing liquid to break the surface tension of the mix. I generously applied it, then used paper tissue to wipe off the excess.

This worked quite well and quick.

I have a little mist of white here and there on the board, but this is hardly noticeable.

Gaming Board

Some lessons learnt. When using a masking material that is itself not transparent, the edge of the masking material should fit somewhere on a visible line on the model (like a row of hexes). With my card mask, it was a bit of guessing if I placed it correctly or not... As you can see, the lines are not always placed neatly...

Apart from that small detail, the process worked well. The salt was a bit of a hindrance, as the underground was not flat, and four hands were very helpful (thanks to my wife).

Next, the salt will be removed; the Dreadball league symbols, the entry point arrows and the referree starting field checkers need to be painted. Also the lines of the hexfields and the numbers on the counters need to be painted.

Gaming Board

Okay, time to get some colours onto the board. The following were used:

First step was, to spray the metal colour.

The main areas of the board were then sprayed green grey.

The team areas, the score counter, the scoring areas and the turn counter were painted in red and blue, one colour for each team.

At this point I decided, that I wanted to break up the hexfield optic of the field. The scoring area was the first part where I applied this. From card I made a mask, and used it to show the scoring areas as a rectangular area.

The 'side add on' tiles were also given a straight edge in the field colour.

The board in its current stage.

When I looked at it, I decided that the playing area needs some lines to give it more structure and further 'de-hex' it.

As a preparation step I cut two more masks from card.

I hope to be able to use them tomorrow.

Gaming Board

With all the teams painted, the board is still missing some paint. Time to change that.

First, all pieces received a basecoat of black from my airbrush.

The second coat was of Vallejo Model Air Rust.

In preparation for the salt step, all pieces received a coat of gloss vanish.