[Song of Fork and Heroes]
Mythical Agyptian Terrain

Flat as can be! Once more it showed that keeping 'trash' is good for Terrain building :-)

In addition to the sphinxes, I built two moniliths and some pillars. The bases of the pillars allow for placing two pieces adjacent, and then placing an additional loose block connecting them.

[Song of Fork and Heroes]
Mythical Agyptian Terrain

Over the last months I cast Hirst Arts molds on and off, then and now. Among them are also Agyptian molds which I intended to use for the games with my Agyptians. Here is the outcome of the Temple entrance mold #98.

I started with the sphinx statues by gluing pairs of blocks using Legos to align them.

The pairs where then glued into the complete sphinx statues, again using Legos for the correct alignment.

Two years ago, our lavatory was redecorated, which resulted in off-cuts from the floor tiles. Which I of course kept, you never know... (my wife was not immediately convinced back then as you might imagine). Now I remembered them, and thought they might be good basing material.

The bottom is plastic with a grid, which makes the bottom somewhat rough. I hope this will help prevent the terrain items sliding around on the table.

Here is my first test piece. I beveled the edges and kept about 1cm flat around the base of the statue.

I now applied PVA glue and grit, currently the sealing coat is drying. So far it looks good concerning the material's warping vulnerability. If it is still flat tomorrow, this will be my basing material for this project.

Plaster Vibrator

I ordered some new molds from Hirst Arts. As the castings for my Frag board surly, albeit unfortunately very slowly, are depleting my plaster supply, I ordered a new bag of plaster. The current 25kg bag lasted for about 4 years, the new one hopefully will last as long.

While shopping for the plaster, my eyes were again catched by a vibrating casting machine, that helps removing and/or preventing air bubbles in the casts. I wanted to have such a machine for quite some time, using a pounding board so far.

As I plan to do quite some castings in the near future, I finally invested in the SILFRADENT VIB15.

Board and Miniatures

Prime night! I basecoated both the Steve Jackson as well as the EM-4 models by airbrushing Vallejo surface primer black 28.012, now they are ready to be painted.

In the background you can see the Hirst Art molds, the plaster drying from the latest cast.

Board and Miniatures

While casting the molds 1-2 times a day to build up the needed number of squares, I removed the mold lines from the EM-4 miniatures in parallel.

I will not use the backpacks supplied with the models, as these fighters are not on a campaign, but on short arena fights. This leaves them with big holes in their backs, though...

To cover these I printed the following quite simple geometric forms on slighty thicker than usual paper

and glued two stacked pieces to each back to represent the body armour.

For the planned way to base the models, the bar below the feet is not helpful, so I removed it. Insted, I inserted a paper pin in one foot of each model. They will first be used to hold the model while being painted, later cut down and used to secure the model in the base.

The paper armour was then sealed with gloss varnish, before rinsing the models in warm soapy water to remove any casting residues.

Board and Miniatures

The weekend before last, I was on Norman's Stag Night, where I talked to Marco who told me about this nice, funny and quick game simulating PC shooters as a boardgame while we talked about the hobby we share.

I really just wanted to take a look at it online - but some clicks later I had bought a copy.

And found to many additional rules - like the capture the flag mode. For this type of game, the miniatures provided with the game might not be enough though - so I would need some more. I was always fascinated by the troopers from EM-4 Minitatures, but they never fit any of my projects. Now there was my opportunity...

Boardgames are optivally boring - flat, just coloured paper... A 3D board is so much better. Enter Hirst Arts Molds. I own quite some of them by now, and played around with some of the 1" floor molds. When placing the walls in 3D as well, they need some kind of broader foot, otherwise they will fall over. So I would need larger tiles, the 1.5" ones, so that the wall foot as well as the base of a miniature fit into each square. So I ordered some of them, enough for the flat floor squares as well as a mold for the power up fields, transporters and respawn points.

Thank you Marco... just another project I have no time for... ;-)