Empress Miniatures Kickstarter¶

This week the Empress Kickstarter package arrived. A complete platoon of Marines, three Oshkosh, mortar support and some additional models like SEALs.

If I only had enough time to paint all my purchases...


[Warfork 40.000 - Rogue Rules]¶
Orks Marauders¶

The Boss is done.

I created the flags for the Nobz and the Boss on the compter and printed them.

Then, I started on the first mob. It will have the classical yellow evil half moon on a turquoise background as mob sign.


[Modern]¶
Private Military Contractors¶

The contractors are finished. I forgot to take some WIP pictures, so here is only the result.

I painted the camo in ACU, Woodland BDU, Flecktarn and DPM; mixing the schemes wildly on the miniatures.

Ready for the first contract.


[Warfork 40.000 - Rogue Rules]¶
Orks Marauders¶

The last 15 Orks are done:

Next up is the Waaagh! Boss, before the fun part of adding the mob markings can begin.


[Modern]¶
Private Military Contractors¶

The models received a basecoat with Vallejo primer, then were sprayed black.


[Warfork 40.000 - Rogue Rules]¶
Orks Marauders¶

Ten more Orks done, 15 left.


[Modern]¶
Private Military Contractors¶

I finished the bases with pebbles and sand, added new weapons where I cut the orignial ones away and filled all the holes and cracks that resulted from my head and weapon exchanges.

No changes to these two.

Here, two M4 where replaced with a G36C and a SA80

The two Hasslefree models got some texture on their backs representing the molle system. The strips need to be finer...

The left model with the radio is the model the boonie was cast from. I replaced this head with a base cap, to remove the Bundeswehr-look. The model on the right had the base cap replaced with a recast boonie.

Two more hat changes and the model on the left had rolled up sleeves added.

Only the top right model was converted, exchaning the base cap with a boonie and replacing another M4 with a SA80. The model does not fit perfectly, the eyes are to far forward, besides the option instead of behind.


[Dreadball]¶
Gaming Board¶

The board is done! I painted the last white lines on the main boards, then painted the DB logos and the arrows on the entry hexes in bright green like they are glowing. The reason for the DB logo in the board center and on the side counter facing each other instead of facing in the same direction, is that each player sees one correctly (otherwise I would need to admit that I botched the assembly...). Placing that piece on the other side does not work, as the black/yellow line does not align correctly on the other side.

After taking the photos, the tiles received a coat of glass varnsish, and then one of matt varnish.


[Dreadball]¶
Gaming Board¶

I did the turn and score counter, I also did some WIP pics.

The white goo applied lliberally.

The white goo wiped away, leaving it only in the recesses,

Center tile with illuminated (the white glow in between) the hexes.


[Dreadball]¶
Gaming Board¶

I started to paint the white lines - which sucks! First, I used my smallest brush with thinned down white, but kept overspilling paint outside the depressions. With even more thinned white it became easier, but the white did not cover properly.

Then I remembered when I put new tiles into our bathroom and added joint compound (I hope this is the right English term). You just poured it on, spread it out, then washed away the excess with a sponge and water (well, it was a bit more complicated, but this should suffice here).

So I tried to emulate this technique on my gaming board. I mixed white with water to a consistency of a bit thicker than milk and added a drop of washing liquid to break the surface tension of the mix. I generously applied it, then used paper tissue to wipe off the excess.

This worked quite well and quick.

I have a little mist of white here and there on the board, but this is hardly noticeable.