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[Warfork 40.000 - Rogue Rules]¶
Orks Marauders¶
When I bought these models I decided to do them in a quicker way than my usual basecoat-shading-highlighting steps given the mass of models and instead use the Army Painter colour blocking quick shade method.
I use leather brown base coat spray and the dark tone quick shade. First batch of models started:
Published 2013-11-28 23:05:00
28mm | Mantic Games | Orks | SiFi | Warfork 40.000 - Rogue Rules
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2 0 1 3 - 1 1 - 2 5
[Warfork 40.000 - Rogue Rules]¶
Orks Marauders¶
My next project for my lunch breaks will be some SiFi Orks from Mantic Games. I ordered them on 08.11.2011 ... only two years ago. I have them assembled and ready for painting since about 1.5 years... you know, one of those fast side projects... about time to get some colour on them!
Here is the whole bunch:
This looks a bit like chaos, which would only be fitting for Orks, but the composition of the mobs is already planned.
Here is the Waaagh! Boss and the Nobs leading the mobs:
All models that did not have a backplate, got some modeled with putty. I really like all the fluff from the good old Rogue Trader Ork books, one of which is that all Orks wear backplates showing their allegiance. The newer GW models unfortunately do not all posess some, also the Mantic Orks don't have them on all models.
To get some variety to the support weapons (there is only one with the Mantic sprues), I did some scratchbuilding. In my bits box I found some bombs and fuel pods from 1/72 scale plastic models, which I used here.
The original support weapons, the muzzle being drilled open.
Flamers, built from GW Ork Shootas and fuel tanks.
Flamers, built from GW Ork Shootas and fuel tanks.
Plasma gun, built around the support weapon from the sprue; and a SAW type weapon, again a GW Shoota.
Plasma gun, built around the support weapon from the sprue; and a SAW type weapon, again a GW Shoota.
Plasma gun, built around the support weapon from the sprue.
Published 2013-11-25 22:06:00
28mm | Mantic Games | Orks | SiFi | Warfork 40.000 - Rogue Rules
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2 0 1 3 - 1 1 - 1 9
[Dreadball]¶
Lumber Rodents¶
The next four models are done. I still like the result and this new (for me) way of painting, but what is annoying is the longer drying time of the inks between coats.
Published 2013-11-19 00:27:00
28mm | Dreadball | Mantic Games | Pre-Shading
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2 0 1 3 - 1 1 - 1 6
[Dreadball]¶
Lumber Rodents¶
The test model is done. I used the following paints:
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SWW008 Baby Poop for the skin, two coats
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SWW019 Ruby for the hair, this will be alternated per model
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SWW029 Fallout for the armour, three coats
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SWW020 Orange, shoulder guards etc
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SWW009 Sewer Water, leather glove
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SWW017 Purple, tail
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White, re-highlight top of tail segments
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SWW026 Cotton Candy, tail
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SWW006 Parchment, bandages, mask
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Vallejo 73.203 Umber Shade, bandages, mask
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SWW025 Just Red, eyes
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SWW003 Armour Wash, metal
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Vallejo 71.063 Silver, highlight metal areas
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White, teeth and claws
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SWW017 watered down, teeth and claws
- Vallejo 72.094 Black, blacklining where some more definition is needed
The result is totally different to any miniature I painted so far, using only inks; but I like the effect. The other rodents will be painted like this model.
Published 2013-11-16 13:03:00
28mm | Dreadball | Mantic Games | Pre-Shading
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[Dreadball]¶
Lumber Rodents¶
The pre-shading is done. I followed up with
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Vallejo 70.870 Medium Sea Grey
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Vallejo 70.989 Sky Grey
- Vallejo 70.951 White
Next up is applying the washes.
If you have any experience with this technique, please feel free to share your experience in the comments.
Published 2013-11-15 21:08:00
28mm | Dreadball | Mantic Games | Pre-Shading
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2 0 1 3 - 1 1 - 1 1
[Dreadball]¶
Lumber Rodents¶
Next project is my third Dreadball team - the Veer-myn.
For them I decided on a painting technique I wanted to try for a long time: pre-shading.
I will try to build up the shadows with grey tones, and then apply only inks and washes to colour the models, leaving the pre-shading showing through. Let's see how this will turn out...
I started by applying a base coat of Vallejo 71.097 Base Grey with my airbrush, followed by a wash of 1/2 water and 1/2 Vallejo 72.094 Black.
When this was dry, I started by drybrushing 72.050 Cold Grey.
This was all for now, but will be followed by 3 more drybrushing stages.
Published 2013-11-11 23:00:00
28mm | Dreadball | Mantic Games | Pre-Shading
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[Kickstarter]¶
Mars Attacks - The Miniatures Game¶
I knew I would not be able to resist as soon as I saw the first announcements... Just pledged for yet another Kickstarter...
Mars Attacks - The Miniatures Game
Published 2013-10-04 21:01:00
28mm | Kickstarter | Mantic Games | Mars Attacks
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2 0 1 3 - 0 9 - 0 1
[Deathball]¶
Gaming Board¶
I own the wood playing board for Dreadball, which still awaits painting. I want to do a run down arena, with a lot of rust. Here is my first test piece, where I gave the salt method my first try.
I sprayed the piece Vallejo Air Model Rust. Then I applied water in selected spots and sprinkled salt over it. This was left to dry.
I sprayed two coats of silver, Vallejo Air Gun Grey and then a lighter code of Vallejo Steel.
The last step was to rubb off the salt.
I am quite please with the result, the final piece needs to be more detailed, with field markings etc. painted on, but the rust effect is very good I think.
Published 2013-09-01 16:55:00
28mm | Airbrush | Dreadball | Mantic Games | Weathering - Salt Method
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2 0 1 3 - 0 7 - 1 8
[Dreadball]¶
Tooth Crushers¶
I finished the last three Orx:
Now all I need to do is add the numerical decals to all the team's backplates and the second team ist done.
Published 2013-07-18 20:24:00
28mm | Dreadball | Mantic Games
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[Dreadball]¶
Tooth Crushers¶
I finished the last two Goblins.
Now only three Moore Orx.
Published 2013-07-07 19:03:00
28mm | Dreadball | Mantic Games
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